Cradle and All (v7) and Updates

CRADLE AND ALL (V7)

In April I went out to Lost Horse Canyon for the first time since the winter snow storm with 1 goal in mind: finishing up Cradle and All.  Last summer I surprised myself by pulling through the crux on the first try.  I had no plans once I got on the arete, got nervous on the tall and committing (although pretty easy) topout, and dropped down.

Midnight Lightbulb Boulder.  The Rail Problem (v4) ascends the rail on the left side of the boulder.  Cradle and All (v7) begins on the bottom of the left rail and then traverses right though the green streak on the right leaning rail and tops out at the apex of the boulder.

The crux move was already finished.  I had it in the bag.  All I needed was a quick warmup on The Rail Problem (an amazing v4) and then I would get it in a couple of tries......or not!  I lured Vicki through the snow with promises of a quick send and an afternoon session at Kootenai.

Two hours later and I had given up.  I could barely make it up to try the crux move.  The left hand crimp/crack completely baffled me.  Most of the time it was too hard to hold on to - I could get the right hand gaston fairly easily but I could not hold the crimp and gaston long enough to get my left foot up high to get in position for the crux cross-over.  Other times it felt decent.  I could not figure out exactly where to grab it to make it feel decent, it seemed random.

I was ready to walk away defeated again and go to Kootenai.  After a snack and a break Vicki encouraged me to get back on it.  I had already cut into our sport climbing sesh so much that we might as well skip it.

Getting back on it, I realized that I was trying too hard to get a perfect placement for the left hand crimp.  I was also moving my left leg up too statically and it was taking a lot of energy and time to lift my leg up high enough to place on the rail.  I resorted to using the crimp, however I first grabbed it, and ninja kicking my foot up high to the rail.

Thirty to forty five minutes later I found myself back on the arete after the crux move!  I collected my breath and began to suss out the top-out.  I got to the apex of the boulder and began to move into position to mantle.....and my foot popped!  Before I knew what happened I was on the ground.  My energy was fading fast, the gummy bears were gone, and my lunch was uneaten in the car an hour's worth of post-holing through the snow away.  I had a few more tries left in me before I was going to lose another battle with this thing. 

A couple of tries later I found myself back on the arete.  I took my time and kept tension on my foot at the apex.  I found a heel hook (I love heel hooks!) for my left foot.  I tried to finesse the top out but, alas, sometimes you just need to use the knee, lose the style points, and get on top of the thing! 

Finally I sent!  After 3 years I finally connected the right dance moves, sat on top, and thanked the boulder for the wonderful memories.  3 years ago I could barely get on the first 2 moves and my back hurt for days after trying!  For the last year+ the crux move has been out of my reach.  This season it came together.  I learned a lot from this line and will be back!  The low start would be a great addition (does anybody know of it being sent?).

On to the next!

Cradle and All video:

Rail Problem video:

UPDATES

Sorry as usual for the lack of updates.  The times they are a-changin' though.  Lately I have been trying to get better at this whole roped climbing thing.  My mental game is still weak and my endurance has lots of room for improvement.  It is getting better though.  Sean and I went to Kootenai yesterday and climbed 10 routes in the 10-11 range (notice I didn't say redpoint).  We started at Razorback, moved left along the 1st Buttress, and ended on The Tempest.  I'm exhausted!

There are so many amazing Bitterroot routes that are on my project list.  Ball and Chain should be the first to go down as I have fallen on the last throw to the jug after the crux 5 times.  Next time for sure!

I am going to Smith Rock this weekend for 1 day of climbing.  Dreamin' (5.12a) is what I have my sights on.  Wish me luck.

There are some exciting things coming.  Look for announcements in the near future!