Thursday, January 2, 2014

The Worldbeater Project



The Worldbeater Project


The Worldbeater Project is a beautiful line I found and cleaned last summer.  It is about 1 mile past 10 Mile Creek up Lost Horse Road.  I will post more detailed directions later this year when I can actually get back to it and describe it in better detail.

View from the side


I have put 4-5 sessions on it and have not yet climbed it from the start.  The stand from a couple of moves in has been sent and it goes at about V5/6.  Here is a video of the stand (ugly topout I know!):




The low start has a couple of different options.  I am working on the squat start with my left hand in a specific area of the side pull sloper and think it will go at around V8.  Here is a video of the first moves:




It is possible to start with the left hand a little lower.  The lower start will definitely be harder but may not add much value to the line.  A sit start may also be possible for someone much stronger than myself.

Wednesday, January 1, 2014

2014

Happy New Year!

Climbing goals for 2014:

To be completely comfortable with falling when it is safe.
To develop bouldering, sportclimbing, and (eventually) mixed routes in the Bitterroots.
To climb in at least 3 new areas that I have never been to before.
To learn how to crack climb.
To train hard.
To start placing gear.
To build up the kids program at Freestone.
To build up this blog.
To improve my routesetting skills.
To start working on a new guidebook for Lost Horse.
To improve my use of body tension.
To climb at least 5.13 and V9.

To climb this thing at Red Rocks:
Mike Reaser on Pablo Diablo. November, 2010.
Pablo Diablo (5.12d) (http://mountainproject.com/v/106957622)

To climb Wifebeater, Cradle and All, Tis Sac, and Scotty's Traverse at Lost Horse.

To climb Opium Den, Flying Lotus, Cosmic Damage, and The Great Escape at Lolo.

To climb Ball and Chain, Venus Fly Trap, The BRIK, and Eric's new route at Kootenai.

To climb everything at Mill Creek.



What are your goals for the new year?