A good day at Lost Horse

Scotty and I tried to head up to upper Lost Horse to try to finish some projects before the snow comes, but we were too late! After a two hour hike through the snow to look for new boulders, we came down to the Motherlode and had some perfect temps for the rest of the day (other than some damp topouts!)

Here are a few from the day: 

 

1) Belayed Reaction

   

 2) Spread 'Em Stand

   

 3) Scotty's Traverse

 

Way of the Samurai (V9/10) - Beautiful Boulder, Lolo Pass

 Not technically the Bitterroots but close enough!

Plan B Project and Bitterroot Climbing Guide

This beauty, the Plan B Project, is getting close to not being a project!  I should say that the stand is close to going, not the sit.  The sit definitely adds a grade or three to what is probably a 9. Hopefully the snow that is coming this week won't stick around for too long and I can get it done.

The Plan B Project, along with another stunning and even harder project, is on the Girlfriend's Best Friend Boulder.  Go climb it!!  Don't know where that boulder is?  Read on!


----LOST HORSE CLIMBING GUIDE----

In other, bigger, not so recent but recent for this blog news, Ryan has created an awesome guide book for Lost Horse.  Go check it out at www.bitterrootbeta.org Thanks Ryan!  It's about time someone has started this project.  It takes a ton of work to put together a guide.  Many of have talked about it, Ryan has finally done it.



Maybe I will actually dust this thing off and try to post more than once every couple of years!

Cradle and All Sit (V8/9)

Cradle and All Sit

Possible FA from Summer 2016.

Spread 'Em Left (V7) - Bolted Boulder

Unknown Stand (V7?) - Bolted Boulder, Lost Horse Canyon

From last fall.

This problem is to the right of Demolition(v4) on the Bolted Boulder.  I started with my right hand on the arete and my left hand on the following crimp:

I spoke to Eric T. from Hamilton about this and he and his friend have done this problem and the sit.  Eric knows more about the bouldering in Lost Horse than anyone else I have talked to.

I feel that the stand is a little bit more difficult than Spread 'Em Stand (V7) but still probably in the 7 range.  The sit seems quite a bit harder.  The beta I found would require going to the heinous left hand crimp first and pulling yourself off of the ground with it and then executing 2-3 more moves with it.  Either way it is a cool problem on the Bolted Boulder that deserves traffic.  Go check it out!!

IN OTHER NEWS

My boy Carson is doing great stuff with his outdoor gear company, Brothers Wilde Designs.  Check him out and order some stuff at http://www.bwildegear.com/

I recently signed on as a brand ambassador with him and couldn't be more proud.  Here is a recent article in the Missoulian about him and what he does: http://missoulian.com/lifestyles/recreation/missoula-fabric-designer-thinks-outside-pack-to-innovate-outdoor-gear/article_495b4308-2e68-5760-a2ae-498003a183f4.html

Western Montana Climbers Coalition

There is a newly formed non-profit in town that is dedicated to local climbing: the Western Montana Climbers Coalition (WMCC).

Check out Michael's write up about it here:
http://millcreekreport.blogspot.com/2014/05/western-montana-climbers-coalition.html

And check out the webpage here:
https://www.facebook.com/westernmontanaclimberscoalition

This is really good stuff.  I'm excited about things to come.  One thing to look out for which I will mention again in the near future - a new climbing festival!!  Yes!!!!

New routes: The Barborist (5.13a) at Kootenai and Goretex Vortex (5.11d?) at Mill Creek

There are 2 new fantastic routes in the area!

THE BARBORIST

At Kootenai, The Barborist (5.13a) was bolted and first sent by Erik P.  The bolts went up around mid December and Erik sent the route in January. It has seen at least one more ascent by Kyle N. and is by all accounts a fantastic addition to the First Buttress.

Kyle on the 2nd ascent.

The route begins with the first few bolts (the lower crux) of The BRIK and then flows right through its own unique climbing on immaculate Bitterroot stone to finish at the chains of The Arborist.  Erik recommends a shoulder length draw on the red painted bolt (4th?) before the traverse right in order to reduce rope drag.  If you currently climb or project the grade you must try this route!

Stay tuned for more sweet routes in Kootenai put up by Erik.

THE GORTEX VORTEX

At Mill Creek, The Gortex Vortex (5.11d?) was bolted and first sent by Dane S. and Brian M.  The bolts went up in late January and the route was sent on the same day.  It also has been getting rave reviews.

Brian venturing into the steepness.

The route begins about 30 yards up past No Drama Obama and ascends a large, improbable looking line through an intimidating roof.  Dane remarked that he and Brian were surprised and delighted to find that the line went in the 11+ range.  Look for more good stuff to come in that sector.